Grey Flannel
Fragrance notes
Character
Grey Flannel opens with a slap of galbanum, bitter and green in a way almost nothing made today would risk, before petitgrain and bergamot cut it with citrus. Geoffrey Beene composed this in the middle of the vintage green-floral wave, and it still smells like that era: severe, slightly bitter, more interested in texture than in being liked.
Violet, iris and narcissus take over the heart, powdery and a little medicinal, while mimosa and rose round off the sharper edges with a gentle sweetness. That swing, bitter green into powdery floral, is the whole reason to spend time with this bottle.
Oakmoss, vetiver and cedar anchor the base and keep the wear going long after the galbanum has burned off, holding its shape with real stubbornness. The trail stays modest throughout, a mossy, powdery warmth noticed by whoever's close enough to lean in, never traveling far from where it started.
It wants cool weather, spring through fall and deep into winter, and struggles the moment summer heat arrives. Composed by Andre Fromentin, it is unapologetically aromatic and green, built at a time when bitterness in a men's fragrance wasn't a flaw to be softened out.
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