Creation N° 09 by Ulric de Varens bottle
Ulric de Varens

Creation N° 09

4.6/5 · 14 votes Feminine
Main accords
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Fragrance notes

Notes

Character

Longevity3.6/5
Sillage2.6/5
Day100
Night100
Spring67
Winter67
Summer50
Fall50
Our take

Creation N° 09 is a study in contrasts, where tart cranberry and juicy raspberry collide with dark, damp oakmoss. The result is a chypre that feels both vibrant and grounded. Ulric de Varens did not aim for a safe, clean scent here. Instead, the fragrance leans into the earthy complexity of patchouli, allowing it to mingle with the sharp citrus of mandarin orange. It is a bold choice for a feminine fragrance, refusing to hide its rougher edges behind a wall of sugar. The pomegranate adds a sharp, almost metallic brightness that cuts through the heavier notes, preventing the composition from becoming too muddy.

The transition from fruit to forest floor is abrupt rather than smooth. The vanilla here is not a comfort note but a dark, resinous presence that reinforces the patchouli rather than softening it. While the raspberry tries to inject a sense of playfulness, the oakmoss and rose pull the scent back into a serious, almost austere territory. The limitation lies in its execution: the synthetic edge of the raspberry can occasionally clash with the natural dampness of the moss, creating a disjointed effect where the notes feel stacked rather than blended. It is a fragrance of distinct parts that do not always settle into a cohesive whole.

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