Cabochard Parfum by Grès bottle
Grès

Cabochard Parfum

4.4/5 · 311 votes Unisex 1959
Main accords
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Fragrance notes

Top notes
Asafoetida
Heart notes
Base notes

Character

Longevity3.5/5
Sillage3.3/5
Day56
Night67
Fall100
Winter77
Spring28
Summer15
Our take

Cabochard Parfum opens with a slap of aldehydes sharp as winter light, tangled in tarragon and sage that feel almost medicinal before asafoetida adds its funky, savory tang. A fleeting lemon flickers through, but the fruit notes are more bruised than ripe, and the whole introduction is a bracing, unsweetened affair. Bernard Chant’s 1959 composition unfurls like a leather jacket found in an attic, stiff and dusty but still carrying the ghost of a cigarette and a half-remembered argument. The heart softened by orris root and ylang-ylang gives a brief floral gasp, but it’s quickly consumed by the base: a dense, mossy leather thickened with tobacco, patchouli, and a touch of coconut that adds a strange, almost feral warmth. This is not a polite fragrance. It’s animalic, earthy, and deliberately rough around the edges, with a woody, spicy backbone that feels both natural and uncompromising. The sillage is moderate and the longevity respectable for a vintage-style parfum, though you may need to respray if you want to project through a long evening. Who wears this? Someone who has already decided what they like, someone who finds comfort in shadow and leather rather than light and sugar. Skip it if you crave sweetness or think a cloud of iso e super qualifies as daring. Cabochard is for cold months, for gray afternoons, for nights when you want to smell like you’ve been somewhere, not just somewhere pretty.

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