Hermessence Ambre Narguile by Hermès bottle
Hermès

Hermessence Ambre Narguile

4.4/5 · 3,973 votes Unisex 2004
Main accords
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Fragrance notes

Notes

Character

Longevity3.5/5
Sillage3.1/5
Day72
Night78
Winter100
Fall100
Spring25
Summer14
Our take

Hermessence Ambre Narguile takes its name from the hookah lounge but contains no actual smoke, built instead entirely from sweetness: honey, rum, caramel and cinnamon layered over tonka bean and vanilla. Jean-Claude Ellena composed it for Hermès in 2004, and despite the name, it smells like warm dessert wine and spiced sugar rather than tobacco or resin.

Benzoin, labdanum and a touch of sesame thicken the base without adding any bitterness, and coumarin brings a soft, hay-like sweetness that rounds off the cinnamon's heat. White orchid barely registers on its own, dissolved completely into the honey and caramel.

It's a cold-weather fragrance almost exclusively, built for fall and winter and not much else, equally suited to daytime or evening given how close its day and night character runs. Staying power is long, the honey and tonka holding their shape well after the cinnamon calms down, and the sillage stays gathered close, a soft cloud that only reaches whoever sits right beside you. No tobacco touches this copper hookah bowl, only honey, rum and warm spice, steam rising in place of smoke.

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