Le Parfum 2023
Fragrance notes
Character
Le Parfum 2023 opens with a sharp, almost metallic anise that snaps like a freshly cracked black jellybean, immediately softened by a candied cherry so glossy it’s practically dripping. Violet hovers in the background, powdery and slightly melancholic, before the heart pulls in a chewy licorice note that turns the whole thing into a black-and-purple sugar-dusted dream. The iris here is dry and cosmetic, not floral, and it brushes up against the tonka bean’s creamy almond warmth. By the dry down, you’re left with a cozy praline-vanilla musk that’s more intimate than loud — think of a vintage vanity table where a half-eaten cherry liquorice sweet has melted into a dusting of face powder. That’s the image: a sweet but slightly dusty memory, a little theatrical, a little faded.
This is Annick Menardo’s work, and it shows in the lean, skeleton-like structure that prioritizes texture over heft. The sweetness is real but not syrupy, backed by a soft patchouli that keeps it from tipping into foodie territory. It feels natural enough in its synthetic clarity, leaning more niche than mainstream in spirit, but the performance numbers tell the honest story. Longevity is modest at best, barely three hours before it retreats into a skin-scent, and sillage is a shy whisper — you’ll smell it up close, but don’t expect it to announce your arrival. Is that a dealbreaker? Only if you need a bomb. For those who love the dusty, powdery anisic lineage of the original Lolita Lempicka but want a version that’s more licorice-forward and less syrupy, this is a worthy refresh.
It suits someone who wears fragrance for themselves, not for a crowd — someone who enjoys a vintage, slightly gothic sweetness without it shouting. Best to reach for this in spring or fall, when the air carries a slight chill, or in winter when the powdery base can nestle into scarves and coat collars. Wear it to a quiet afternoon tea or a moody evening walk, but don’t expect it to carry through a full day at the office. It’s a fleeting beauty, and that’s part of its charm.
Smells similar
Built from the same materials — ranked by how unusual the shared notes are, not by how many.
