Vitriol d’œillet by Serge Lutens bottle
Serge Lutens

Vitriol d’œillet

3.9/5 · 1,218 votes Unisex 2011
Main accords
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Fragrance notes

Notes
Wallflower

Character

Longevity3.4/5
Sillage3.0/5
Day95
Night55
Fall100
Winter80
Spring54
Summer24
Our take

Vitriol d’œillet opens with a slap of clove and pepper so sharp it could etch glass. The carnation arrives immediately, not the powdery, polite kind but one dipped in paprika and nutmeg, bristling with heat. A brief flash of lily and ylang-ylang tries to soften the edges, but this is a fragrance that wears its acidity like armor. The wallflower note, dusty and slightly sour, adds a strange, almost metallic tang that keeps things from settling into comfort. It dries down to a softer, white floral whisper, but the spicy punch never fully fades. The overall character is a stained glass window melting in a hot chapel. The colors bleed, the scent of incense and old wood clings, and there’s a bitter sweetness that feels more like a warning than an invitation. It is decidedly niche, not shy, and leans synthetic in the way only Lutens can get away with. The longevity and sillage are both moderate, which is a blessing. This fragrance works best in fall or winter, when its heat can be appreciated without overwhelming a room. It suits someone who enjoys being a little uncomfortable in their own skin, who wants a scent that provokes rather than pleases. Skip it if you prefer your florals clean or your spices gentle. It is a carnation that bites, and not everyone wants to bleed for their perfume. 🌶️

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