Opus XIII – Silver Oud by Amouage bottle
Amouage

Opus XIII – Silver Oud

3.9/5 · 862 votes Masculine 2021
Main accords
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Fragrance notes

Top notes
Heart notes
Base notes

Character

Longevity4.4/5
Sillage3.7/5
Day36
Night86
Winter100
Fall81
Spring32
Summer14
Our take

Cecile Zarokian’s Silver Oud opens with a startlingly dry, almost medicinal crackle of cypriol and patchouli, that is the smell of black earth splitting under a winter sun. The cedar is a brittle skeleton beneath it, all sharp edges and no comfort. Then the heart hitches: a smudge of Madagascar vanilla trying to sweeten the agarwood’s dark, fermented insistence, but the leather and smoke of the base notes are already rising. This is not a negotiation. The castoreum and birch drag everything down into a heavy, balsamic gloom that clings to the skin like tar on a cold grate. Longevity is a beast — easily eight hours — though sillage is a closer, more intimate affair, a whisper rather than a shout. The overall character is that of a disused tannery after a rainstorm: wet, smoky, animalic, and oddly serene in its decay.

Who wears this? Someone who finds comfort in ash and leather, who prefers the scent of a library’s oldest folio to a field of lavender. It is overwhelmingly masculine in its attitude, though the notes are unisex on paper. The sweetness of vanilla is barely a memory, smothered by woody, balsamic depth. It belongs to deep autumn and the dead of winter, best worn at night when shadows thicken. Skip it if you want freshness, or if your idea of oud is a clean, polished wood. This is raw, smoky, almost confrontational. The rating hovers just below 4, and I understand why: the opening can feel too harsh, like a door slamming shut. But the dry down, that rich, earthy stillness — that is the reward for patience.

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