Anthracite by Jacomo bottle
Jacomo

Anthracite

4.1/5 · 127 votes Unisex 1990
Main accords
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Fragrance notes

Top notes
Heart notes
Base notes

Character

Longevity3.4/5
Sillage3.1/5
Day100
Night58
Spring95
Fall89
Winter74
Summer47
Our take

Anthracite opens with a sharp, almost abrasive slap of hyacinth and basil, the greenness so vivid it feels like crushing wet leaves in a clenched fist. Lemon and bergamot provide a brief citrus fizz before the heart erupts into a dense, powdery floral bouquet. Narcissus and orris root lend a bitter, lipstick-like quality, while tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom swirl together into a creamy, almost cloying white floral chokehold. This is not a fresh spring garden; it is a funeral wreath left too long in a stuffy parlor, the petals turning brown at the edges.

The drydown rescues the composition with a warm amber-vanilla base, softened by heliotrope and benzoin, but the cedar and vetiver keep it from tipping into outright sweetness. The overall character is a strange anachronism: a heavy, synthetic-laced oriental floral that feels both dated and stubbornly compelling. Longevity is mediocre at best, barely four hours before it retreats into a skin scent, and sillage is a polite whisper. For a fragrance named after coal, it burns with little heat.

Who should wear it? Someone nostalgic for the overstuffed floral bombs of the late 80s, or a lover of powdery, green-fresh contrasts who doesn't mind reapplying. Skip it if you demand projection or crave airy, modern transparency. Best worn on a chilly spring morning or a damp autumn afternoon, ideally when you want to smell like a ghost in a department store from 1990, polished and slightly unsettling.

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